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A&B Plumbing & Heating Inc.
 will listen to your needs and ask questions before we offer solutions. Environmental regulations and your willingness to comply can be beneficial for you and the environment. Our goal is to help you achieve this at a reasonable cost. We dig trampoline pits, utility underground and utility vault settings, remodel/addition excavations, walk out basement excavations, pool excavations. We do rough grades, finish grades, laser assisted grading and we take care of and solve drainage issues. We grade for concrete driveways, RV pads, sidewalks and commercial pads and parking areas. We will answer any questions you may have about water systems, filtration, problems with equipment etc. The new Bobcat® compact excavators (also known as mini excavators) combine proven quality with new standards for performance and production. Known as the M-Series, the new compact excavators are reengineered to deliver greater strength in a lighter machine. Throughout each model, you’ll find enhancements that save precious time, save labor, make you more comfortable, and provide peace of mind. Bobcat Work, Grading, Slope Repair, Hauling, Excavation, Yard Box, Yard Repair and Gravel

•      Retaining Walls

•      Fire Hydrants

•      Water Lines Replace or Repair

•      Sewer and Water mains Replace or Repair

•      Storm Sewers

•      Excavating For Swimming Pools

•      Excavating For Basement and Foundations

•      Excavate Finished Basement with  36” Opening

•      Site Clean up

•      Yard Grading

•      Porch Wraps

•      Window Well Enlargements

•      Walkways

•      Water Features

Concrete Gutters
 In your work, you may have encountered curbs and gutters on several scales
A border around a flowerbed, curbs and stops in a parking lot, sidewalks in a new subdivision, or a full-on highway project. Here's a look at some of the possibilities for adding value to these projects with decorative techniques. Driveways must be sloped to provide drainage for rainwater. However, even a properly sloped driveway will have some rainwater running over the sides of the driveway and this coupled with rainwater landing on the landscaping adjacent to the driveway will have water penetrating the foundation layer. Curbs and gutters provide a channel and direction for rainwater and prevent the rainwater from penetrating and saturating the foundation layer.

Oil Separators
Water and Oil Separators utilize the difference in density between oil or petroleum products and water to separate the oil from the water. The oil collected is normally skimmed off and disposed or processed for recycling. Additionally, water and oil separators form a sediment layer from particles settling to the bottom. The sentiment sludge is removed by a mechanical scraper or similar device or lifted to a storage device by a sludge pump. The separated water may require additional purification treatment for removal of any residual oil, biological contaminants or other harmful chemicals present. Water and Oil separators are utilized through industry, typical industrial applications include:  food processing equipment, heavy manufacturing, wastewater treatment, marine, water drainage and engine fuel systems.

At A&B Plumbing and Heating, we are in the business of solving your "underground" problems and we do this by providing value before, during, and after construction. Before a bucket of dirt has ever been turned we analyze the project looking for cost savings ideas, a quicker way to get it built, or potential pitfalls. We have built a reputation of "expecting the unexpected" on underground utility work. Our clients appreciate the professionalism A&B Plumbing and Heating brings to the job. Call us and let A&B Plumbing and Heating show you a new level of service on your next project.
Do you need excavation work done on your property but don't want to deal with an extra contractor? Call or e-mail A&B Plumbing and Heating, to let us handle all your excavation work. We specialize in drainage system installation, retaining wall construction, and grading services. We're always here to help you create your dream home. There are two main sources of water which must be considered. The first is surface water, which comes directly from rain, ending up on the land. The second actually is from rain also, but in this case it hits the roof of the house, running into the gutters. These gutters, which can collect a large amount of rain water, connect to leader pipes usually attached to house corners.

French Drains
Concrete_GuttersWhen are French drains useful? If your neighbor’s land stands at a higher elevation than yours, you may be experiencing problems with excessive moisture on your property. Water from your neighbor’s property may be running down the slope and spilling onto your property. You need better yard drainage. One option in such cases is installing French drains. When some people speak of a “French drain,” they refer to a trench in which a drain pipe is laid, but the traditional French drain is basically a trench filled with gravel. Determine a spot on your property where the excess water coming off the slope could be re-routed. Determining such a location may end up being a matter of choosing “the lesser of two evils.” If water is currently spilling out at your house foundation and excessive moisture threatens to damage it, obviously almost any other spot would be preferable. The ideal French drain leach field would be an out-of-the-way area with sandy soil, through which the water could percolate harmlessly. Locate the best area for a French drain. Find an area along the slope on your side of the boundary where excavation would be easiest for your French drain (i.e., free of obstructions). Trench lines should be plotted out before you begin digging French drains. You need to create your own mini-slope to carry the water down to its destination. A grade of 1% (i.e., a drop of 1 foot for every 100 feet in length) is often recommended for French drains; others advise a drop of 6" for every 100'. Getting the water to go where you wish is essential for improving yard drainage.

Water & Hydrant Systems
Firefighting existed before the hydrant and the idea of getting the wet stuff onto the red stuff is very old. The inventor of the first device that we'd recognize today as a fire hydrant can't be told, because the hydrant was developed over a period of many years by many people. The first hydrants were used for public water supply from the earliest municipal water systems. They resembled faucets and were at best suited for the bucket brigade method of firefighting. Prior to municipal water systems, there were other means to provide water in the event of a fire. The main challenges of hydrant design --- anti-freezing, hydraulic efficiency, ease of repair - were all known and dealt with, to varying degrees of success, early on, before 1900. The first steamer or pumper outlet came about around 1860 following the invention of the steam fire engine. Although materials have improved and some of the elements of hydrant design have been refined, the basic form of both the dry barrel and wet barrel hydrants have endured relatively unchanged since the mid 1800s. Water and fire fighting will always be together. Globally, water is our most plentiful resource. It is inexpensive. When public water systems are present, it is available in an almost endless supply. When applied properly, it is very effective in absorbing heat and extinguishing fires. For these reasons, fire services throughout the world base their primary operations upon utilizing water as a fire extinguishing agent. Water and fire hydrant systems involve substantial capital expense, however they typically last between 70 and 100 years. A properly designed and installed system is a long term investment in community safety and should be undertaken utilizing long term planning and appropriate engineering standards.   While there are numerous published minimum standards, design criteria for water systems should be based upon the expected service needs over the life of a particular system. Storage and water delivery capacities should include peak domestic consumption combined with peak anticipated fire flows. Storage capacity should be sufficient to hold two days' peak domestic use plus a minimum of two hours of peak fire flow in ordinary hazard zones, and a minimum of three hours (or greater) in high hazard zones. Calculations for pipe sizing should take into account a minimum of 50 years subsequent community growth and its increased demands on the system. Pipe materials and installation criteria should be appropriate for soil conditions which includes issues of soil stability and seismic activity. Over the life of a system it is less costly to install a proper system that has sufficient capacity for future community needs to it is to remove and replace pipes every few years. Hydrant installation details need to be coordinated among all parties involved at the construction site. If hydrants are being installed in areas to be landscaped or if final grading elevations are not clear, the hydrant design that is specified should easily accommodate placement of riser extensions of various lengths so that the final hydrant installation is compatible with the final grade elevation.

Basement and Foundations
Concrete slabs, basement foundation systems, and crawl-spaces all experience water-vapor issues. Moisture infiltration can lead to mold and mildew growth and cement discoloration. Heat loss through the slab can increase utility costs. Fortunately there are a number of products used by A&B Plumbing and Heating that are form effective defenses against these problems. Excavating with machinery is obviously a potentially dangerous pastime that should only be attempted by trained professionals who are licensed to operate their equipment.  In most cases, excavating equipment is only used on locations away from residential neighborhoods or in places closed to the public.  When excavating for a residential basement waterproofing repair project, however, this heavy equipment comes in close proximity to our homes and families, and special care needs to be taken.
BasementBasement Foundation Having a strong, stable basement foundation is critical to preventing structural damage to your entire home. As you'll see from our growing list of articles on basement foundations, there is more than one type to choose from. Understanding which foundation will work best for your basement entails knowledge of your location and your home's specific design. For instance, is there a lot of sand in your area? Will windows and doors be placed within the foundation structure? Will frost lines make your footings deeper? Understanding which materials work best and how they will be used during the construction process requires knowledge of these answers. A basement can be transformed and utilized in a number of ways, from storage to a family room. It is important though that all structural aspects are taken into account during the remodel. Making sure the basement has a strong foundation is key. Basement foundations are, basically, an accessible space between the soil and the 1st floor framing of a house. They have walls that are at least eight feet high and are usually thicker than standard foundation walls. Basements are predominant in cold climates where footings are forcibly deep due to frost lines and are usually full-height to allow extra living or storage space. In some areas basement foundations are not possible because of high water tables or the obstruction created by solid rock near to the surface. Full-height basement foundations consist of a slab on grade with full height footing walls. First the site will be excavated to the necessary depth. The hole does not necessarily need to be 8' deep or more. The top of footing walls will need to be above finish grade at least one to two feet to keep water away from the structure. After excavation a layer of crushed gravel should be put down and compacted. This gravel will provide drainage under and around the slab and footings. Next, the footing walls will be built. These may consist of poured concrete or block masonry reinforced with carbon steel bars or rods. Traditionally brick was also used for foundation walls but is much less common today because steel reinforced concrete or cement blocks are much more structurally sound. The depth below finish grade or the amount of fill dirt that will press against the footing wall will determine the thickness of the wall. Be sure that you or your contractor consults a structural engineer before pouring footings. It is essential to have a quality, durable foundation beneath your home. The basement floor will simply be a slab on grade, poured directly onto the compacted gravel, which will span the interior of the footings. This slab is several inches thick and reinforced with wire mesh or steel bars. Waterproofing can be done on existing basements, but if you are building new, then it is an excellent idea to seal it either at the time of construction or before anything is moved into the new basement. Epoxy or latex waterproof mixes can be purchased at local home improvement stores and applied with relative ease. If a home is built on a slope or hillside it may very well have a daylight, or walk-out, basement. Basement WalkoutDaylight basements have usually one side of the foundation exposed with doors and/or windows. Daylight basements can be very advantageous, especially if the basement is finished. One important note, if you have, or plan on building, a standard basement, know that if you wish to finish you will by law need an egress, or access, window which acts as a fire exit. Full-height basement foundations do cost more than slab on grade or low-height, crawl space foundations but, if you have the opportunity, they are a worthwhile investment. Not just for added worth of your home should you sell, but also for that extra storage space or living space. Basements add an amazing amount of square footage to a home without eating up the entire lot. Strong Basement Foundations A basement can be a big asset to a home, or a big headache. If properly installed and maintained, it can be a great storage facility or converted into additional living space. If you, like many homeowners, are continually fighting with water and moisture issues, then you are probably hating the fact that you even have a basement. It is in your best interest both for quality of life and resale value to make your basement as much of an asset as possible. The basement is essentially the foundation to your home, and a solid foundation is quite important. The original contractor should have taken the proper measures to ensure a strong foundation; but that isn’t always the case, especially in older homes. A basement foundation should be even stronger and more enforced than a regular slab. Your contractor should be well-educated on the required codes in your area, but here is a simple overview of the requirements for a basement foundation. Begin with a concrete footing. On the exterior of the footing, you should install some form of a drain system to keep water away from the foundation. Forms will be built on top of the footing to form the concrete foundation walls; whose height will depend upon the engineering specifications for the project. On the inside of the concrete walls, a layer of gravel, followed by sand, followed by a steel-rebar grid, followed by a thick concrete slab will form the floor of the basement. You can then seal the concrete with a vapor-barrier sealant to prevent moisture from seeping through the concrete. Once you have a strong foundation in place, you can convert your basement into anything you can imagine. As long as the proper drainage techniques and moisture barriers are in place, you shouldn’t have any of the problems typically associated with basements.

Landscape Drainage Problems water can pool on your property. Not only is this annoying, but it can be bad for plants. It can also be a breeding place for mosquitoes. Water can also seep towards your house, causing water to seep into the basement, or even the house itself. Landscape Drainage With Pipes Sometimes water must drain to an area where there is planting beds and no lawn. In this case, you can install a perforated pipe, which is simply a solid pipe with holes on the top where water enters. This then connects to a solid pipe which leads the water away from the area.

Landscape Drains
 The swale can also bring the water to a landscape drain. This is a contained device with a grate cover. The water enters these types of landscape drains, which are set at lower elevations. A solid pipe is connected to the container, so that when the water enters this area drain, it flows into the pipe. The pipe should be pitched at two percent. Landscape grading can be carried out in various ways, but it is something that should be considered, if possible, in conjunction with your landscape design. In this way, your landscape can be created for both esthetics and function, and drainage problems will be eliminated. If drainage problems arise later, successful landscape grading and drainage can still be accomplished, but with a bit more difficulty.

Water features
Water features are intriguing garden elements! Just about everyone loves water in the garden. Some of the most famous landscapes in the world have one thing in common, and that is some type of water element. Formal Pond You might want to include a formal pond. This can be circular, square, rectangular or a combination of shapes. It can be level with the ground or raised, but must have running water to stay clean.

Creating Natural Waterfalls
I began looking at pictures of waterfall designs. I would suggest you do this also. I found out there are certain necessary elements to create natural waterfalls. If these elements are not there, the waterfall just isn't going to look natural. The size and height of the area will impact waterfall designs. There was a very successful one built on one of my projects that was not very high or deep. Yet the rocks were placed beautifully and the end result showed. However, let's assume that you are creating a waterfall that has a decent height and has a fair amount of depth.  Here are some elements that will create that natural look. A minimum of two large flat rocks creating two waterfall tiers. These will create a lovely waterfall spillway. Each of these flat rocks should be built up underneath with small, medium or large boulders. Although flat rocks creating the waterfall spillways can be lined up, it looks better if the bottom one is straight and the upper one is angled. Place large boulders on towards the sides. Fill in the spaces with smaller boulders/rocks. The rocks should be of different sizes and shapes. Place a couple of smaller flat rocks along the edges. Place some stones on top of these rocks. Edge the waterfall with at least one large boulder extending out past the main waterfall area. Place a beautiful boulder out from the waterfall in the landscape, but not too far away. Try to use at least one boulder that stands on end with a narrower top. This complete change of shape and form provides interest in waterfall designs. When all of these rocks are placed, add lots of small to medium rocks. Also add quite a few very small rocks, almost like large pebbles.  A&B Plumbing & Heating Inc. will be happy to help.

Swimming Pools
Concrete swimmingThe two main types of swimming pools are either a vinyl liner pool or concrete swimming pools. Vinyl liner pools are less expensive. Although only specific shapes are offered, there is a wide selection. When choosing a concrete swimming pool, you have your choice of any shape that can be designed. Pool shapes can be either rectilinear in shape, curvilinear, or a combination of both. There are so many shapes and sizes to choose from. I like to stay with the simpler designs and create the excitement in the surrounding design elements. The simplest style is a rectangle.
 Another popular design is an L shape. Grecian pools are also Classic. These pools have straight side edges, with a simple curve at both ends. For more natural shaped pools, you can use a kidney shape or any creative free form that one might design. These pools tend to give a "lagoon" type feel to the design. Pools can also have intriguing vanishing edges. When thinking about landscape designs for pools, an important decision to make is what type of pool paving material to use. Paving around pools is a little different than other areas. You don't want to select swimming pool decking that will be hot on the feet. Bluestone, which I love, is known for this, so I rarely recommend it to be used. Some materials to consider that work well around pools are other natural stones, such as Idaho Quartz or Tennessee Crab Orchard, travertine pavers, concrete pavers, stamped concrete and concrete pool decking. Spas can be designed as part of the pool itself, or set apart in the pool paving. For spas (hot tubs) integrated with the swimming pool, a variety of different designs can be used.

A&B Plumbing | Kitchen & Bath Remodeling | Tankless Water Heaters | Wastewater Treatment | Radiant Heat | Concrete & Excavating | Contact Us

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